About Face: Face Basics

by Laura Teusink - dancespirit.com
First Published: January, 2003

Need an all-purpose look that will keep your face brilliant under the bright lights? Ds makeup artist Denise Melroy lays down the basics to create definition that goes the distance.

Gimme Some Skin

Moisturize your skin and apply foundation with a makeup sponge.
TIP: Choose a foundation exactly the same shade as your skin tone or slightly deeper—lighter tones will wash out in the stage lights.

To contour, shade very softly along your hairline with a slightly darker foundation, following the natural indentations of your bone structure. To highlight, apply a slightly lighter shade of foundation to the places on your face that feel warm when you are under a bright light. Blend everything well. Set foundation with a loose powder and brush.

High Brow

Brows should be plucked or shaped with a pencil so the highest point of each brow arch lines up with the outer edge of the iris of each eye. You may need to extend your natural brow line with a pencil to add drama.

The Eyes Have It

Line your eyelids with liquid liner or a pencil liner applied with a brush (a great option if your hands aren’t steady). Line the top of each lid with black or dark brown. Line under eyes with a lighter shade.
TIP: Keeping the under-eye color lighter than the top color makes your eyes look more open. You can also dot a little bit of white eye shadow into the corners of your eyes.

You’ll need three earth tone shades for your lids—light, medium and dark. Brush the lightest color across the entire lid up to your brow.
TRICK: If you want to make your light color even lighter, mix a little baby powder in with it. Then use medium color just on your eyelids. With the darkest color, contour each crease for more definition and depth.
TIP: If your eyes are set close, contour the outer two-thirds of each crease; if your eyes are farther apart bring the color closer to the center.

After setting the three colors on your eyes, accentuate the creases with the dark color and highlight your eyebones with the lightest color.
TIP: You can also use your lightest eye shadow to highlight the top of your cheekbones just under your eyes.

Lash, Lash, Wink, Wink

Trim your false lashes to fit the width of your eyes exactly. Slide false lashes right down to your lash line for a more dramatic look. Brush real lashes with mascara to blend them into the false lashes.

Lastly, Lips

Use a pencil to give your lips a clean line.
TIP: Brush over the pencil with a lip brush to soften the line a bit. Fill in your lips with a matte lipstick of a slightly darker shade than the liner.